Storm the Avenue! By Megan Wong
There’s no better excuse to toast the food and
wine of France than Bastille Day (July 14), which conveniently falls on
a Friday night this year. But revolutionary revelers don’t need to hop
across the pond to party with the Republic – just jet over to Palo
Alto’s California Avenue for continental eats fit for a… well, French
democracy.
Over the past few years, the roughly
three-block strip between El Camino Real and the Caltrain station has
quietly evolved into something of a watering hole for Francophiles. The
short thoroughfare now boasts several French-themed establishments:
cafés, restaurants – even a wine bar. The low-key mix attracts everyone
from crepe-munching techie types to grandmothers chatting over salade
niçoise. So don your beret and check out these venues. Allez!
Palo Alto Baking Company
381 California Ave., Palo Alto (650) 321-3234
Don’t
let the name throw you. This venerable establishment was transformed
into a French patisserie by the previous owner and continues to offer
myriad ways to amuse your bouche. It’s a daytime place, so stop by
before 6pm to sample the French pastries, petit fours, fruit tarts, and
buttery baked goods. Try Le Royal (a dome of chocolate mousse atop a
praline crunch), a sugar brioche, or the popular marzipan-filled almond
croissant. For a quick fix that won’t ruin your appetite for dinner,
savor a tiny cannelé (a caramelized, gumdrop-shaped butter cake).
Vin Vino Wine
437 California Ave., Palo Alto (650) 324-4903
What
better way to get in the celebratory mood than with some French wine?
Vin Vino Wine is an unpretentious tasting bar and bottle shop ideally
situated for some sampling before heading to dinner. Each day, the bar
offers six or seven new wines to try. Tastings can be bought by the
glass or by the series. The short series gets you a sample of four to
five wines, while a full series consists of seven to eight tastes
(prices vary based on the wines being showcased). “The focus is on
being a bar, hanging out,” says manager J.J. Clifton. “We change the
tasting bar three times a week. For regular customers, there’s always
something new to try.”
Café Brioche
445 California Ave., Palo Alto (650) 326-8640
It’s
not unusual to see a cluster of hopeful diners outside this quaint,
50-seat restaurant (fortunately, they take dinner reservations). Guests
are understandably eager for their cassoulet de Toulouse (a white bean
stew flavored with duck confit and smoked pork chop, $18), duck confit
spinach salad (sprinkled with juicy cranberries, $13), and classic
boeuf bourguignon ($18). Café Brioche’s menu tends to shift with the
seasons, but some things have proven too good to wait for. Customer
demand recently brought back the Provençal fish stew from the winter
menu for enjoyment throughout the summer. The low-key charm and quality
menu of Café Brioche has garnered the respect of many French-speaking
visitors (including well-known French philosophe Michel Serres) who
make it a point to dine here when in town.
Bistro Elan
448 California Ave., Palo Alto (650) 327-0284
This
popular restaurant has a faithful following for what it does best:
casual California-French fare in a white-tablecloth setting. Although
it doesn’t specialize in traditional French food, owner and chef
Ambjorn Lindskog trained in Burgundy, so he’s versed in continental
cooking. The duck confit ($22) is a signature dish. And a sure bet is
the flatiron steak prepared with herbed butter, and served with wooden
bowls of – what else? – French fries ($24). The desserts are made by a
stellar in-house pastry chef. Must-tastes include the fruit soufflé
($8.75, changes seasonally) and the gooeylicious, warm chocolate
mini-cupcakes ($8.75). Bistro Élan’s menu rotates every three weeks to
stay seasonal, but their core offerings remain the same. The patio is
open during warmer months so you can dine amidst the rose bushes out
back.
Nora’s Cafe
201 California Ave., Palo Alto (650) 322-8586
Patrick
and Nora Joulain have imported their restaurateur know-how from the
South of France to this quiet corner of Palo Alto. The couple ran
restaurants back home near St. Tropez and their experience is evident
at Nora’s Café. Surrounded by dark wood, burgundy walls, and art
depicting Parisian street scenes, it’s easy to imagine yourself at a
bistro on the Champs Elysées. The restaurant typically offers a special
Bastille Day menu to celebrate the birth of the French Republic.
Otherwise, the savory buckwheat crepes are worth trying, as are any of
the many mussel dishes, like the ardenaise (mussels flavored with
mushrooms and bacon in a white wine sauce, $13.95). Sit back and enjoy
the lively atmosphere inside or, on warm nights, sit out front under
the wine-red umbrellas that give the café its curb appeal.
The information is from The Wave