認真的女人最美

這是我 “第一次” 到瑞士玩三週的遊記 (第一次到瑞士是十幾年前從米蘭開車到瑞士的Lugano’s Fox Town Outlet購物, 那一次真的不能算有去過瑞士), 行程安排的隨性, 景點是瑞士人以當地人的角度安排, 所以去的多半不是知名的觀光景點, 而且是以一個只有二百多人的小村Tschiertschen為基地, 除了Interlaken在Airbnb待三晚, Brissago待一晚以外, 皆是可以當天開車往返. 雖然我待了三週, 卻感覺只玩了1/4的瑞士 (因為都待在德語區), 比起多數遊客, 我的玩法似乎有點奢侈. 這裡只是記錄我的所見所聞, 給自己未來回憶用的.

7/19 (Day 1): 下午到瑞士的蘇黎世機場, 然後開車到Tschiertschen (去而群), 它位在瑞士的東邊, 接近奧地利, 僅有二百多人的一個小村落, 地勢高度4,432 ft, 九成的人說德語, 五成以上的地是農業用.

Chur (庫爾) is the capital and largest town of the Swiss canton of Grisons (Graubünden), 也是瑞士最古老, 離Tschiertschen (去而群) 最近的一個城鎮, 二者之間的距離約12 km/二十五分鐘蜿蜒的車程.

7/20 (D2): Chur 週六上午8-12點有農夫市場, 有很多當地做的Cheeses, Dried Meat, Butter, Honey, Jam. 今早剛好遇到週六, 就去農夫市場逛逛, 順便調時差.

以下地圖標示我這三週去的各景點的大致方位, 多半在德語區, 只有一晚待在義語區.

7/21 (D3): Toboggan adventure mountain Pradaschier in Churwalden – 它長達3,060米(31個彎和480米的高度差)，從海拔1,750米的起點到山谷，行程持續7到10分鐘，達到40公里/小時的速度，是瑞士最長的滑道 。如果你事先定好公車票和Chairlift (纜車) + Toboggan Run (滑軌車)的票, 後者可以享有八折優惠.

然後開車去附近的Heidsee湖畔散步, 這個湖很大, 最後還可以走去附近的Lenzerheide度假小鎮, 有許多可愛的小店.

7/22 (D4): 今早搭巴士到Chur火車站附近的Merz Cafe吃早餐, 搭火車到Ilanz, 去走一條叫Rheinschlucht的Trail (Ilanz Train Station到Versam-Safien Train Station), Hiking 4 hours/12 miles, 再搭火車去Chur, 再搭巴士上Tschiertschen.

7/23 (D5): 今天過午才出門, 去Flims Caumasee, 當地人去的湖畔, 很大的湖, 要門票, 裡面有一間小餐廳供應簡單的食物, 飲料和冰淇淋, 有出租的獨木舟, 水上踏浪板, 水上腳踏車之類的.

7/24 (D6): 今天去Ebenalp坐纜車上山, 然後走一段路去看國家地理雜誌報導的一家延著山壁蓋的餐廳Äscher, 並在這裡享用一頓意外美味的午餐 (Homemade cheese tart with Appenzeller cheese, leek and onions, AND Creamy barley soup with dark bread, stripes of air-dried meat); 一個很特別的山洞, 然後去Appenzell, 一個很有趣的小鎮.

7/25 (D7): 今天去一個很像迷你太魯閣的地方叫Viamala Gorge,

然後去看一個很有特色的石頭教堂Steinkirche Cazis,

晚餐放肆一下, 走去鎮上一家高級飯店的餐廳 The Alpina Mountain Resort. 超推他們的Prefixed 3 Courses Dinner, 物超所值, 食物美味, 服務好, 景色佳.

Pike-perch(fish) with a parsley barley risotto and mountain sausage crust.

Braised beef shoulder with seasonal vegetables and ”Spätzle”(southern German pasta).

Alpine’s caramelized almond apple tart with malaga ice cream (make to order). 

7/26 (D8): 今天哪裡都不想去, 只想悠閒地待在家裡打文章, 剛好天氣也不太好, 看到這麼大塊的雲, 就表示雷雨要來了.

7/27 (D9): 今天下雨, 所以選擇去位在Vals的 7132 Thermal Baths (不同溫度的冷溫泉), 由一位不是建築師的Peter Zumthor 所設計. 建築本身非常特別, 裡頭的有分好幾處不同溫度的冷泉和溫泉 (14C, 32C, 42C), 還有花瓣池, 音療池, 戶外水療池, 蒸氣室. 入場費也很高貴.

7/28 (D10): 今天一早就起霧和下雨, 很有水墨畫的味道. 下午前往Interlaken去, 在Airbnb待三晚. 今天是在瑞士的第十天, 終於忍不住去加油站的便利商店買杯麵當晚餐, 搭配優格, 麵包和Dried meat. 後來學到西方人吃泡麵的方式是把熱水倒掉後, 加一塊奶油拌勻變成義大利麵. 😛

7/29 (D11): 今天去Bellenberg Open Air Museum.

In 1978, the Swiss Open-Air Museum Ballenberg finally opened its doors and was presented to the public during a three-day celebration. After opening with 16 buildings, there were already 25 two years later and a total of 61 in 1985. Today, there are over 100 houses and other secondary buildings at Ballenberg. The basis for the academic concept of the Open-Air Museum Ballenberg was the work done by farmhouse researchers in Switzerland. It was fundamental in ensuring that there was a wide choice of the most important, typically characteristic forms of houses, farmsteads and settlements in this country.

The Swiss Open-Air Museum Ballenberg is not only an important cultural, research and tourist institution (although it does attract about 200,000 visitors from around the world every year), but with almost 200 workers at the museum during the season, from the middle of April until the end of October, the museum ranks as one of the most important employers in the area.

地圖按照地點分區, 每個地區有不同顏色和代號.

每一棟房子的門口有一個告示牌, 有四種語言 (D-德文, F-法文, I-義大利文, E-英文) 來做解說和介紹.

早期煙燻肉的方式.

製帽工作室

早期做麵包方式的示範

DIY 做奶油

瑞士的剪紙藝術

7/30 (D12): 今天從Interlaken坐Steamboat去Giessbach, 然後坐Cablecar上到Grandhotel, 享用一頓簡單的3-course Prefixed Lunch, 在大瀑布附近走一走, 最後往下走到要搭船回去Interlaken的地方. 我們沒有事先訂票, 到了窗口才詢問船票, 被事務員告知可以買三合一的票 (船票, 纜車, 午餐3-course prefixed), 這位事務員居然拿起電話幫我們打電話去給飯店預訂午餐位子 (服務也太好了).

沿途風景很美, 我們運氣不錯, 這趟旅途到目前為止, 天氣都很配合, 只有幾天遇到大雨.

The Giessbach funicular was the first railway in the world to have a passing loop in the middle of the route, which was built in 1879, is the oldest in Switzerland still in operation.

Grandhotel Giessbach was built in 1873/74 by French architect Horace Edouard Davinet for the Hauser family in Zurich. By the time war broke out in 1914, the Grandhotel Giessbach had become the meeting point for high society. The hotel closed its doors in 1979 after two world wars with years of decline. There were plans for demolishing the entire original complex and building a modern concrete building, in the style of a “jumbo style” chalet, in its place.

Luckily, in November 1983, internationally renowned Swiss ecologist Franz Weber succeeded in buying the 22-hectare Giessbach estate and placing it under protection. In 1984 he reopened the site with a new restaurant, the “Park Restaurant”, and a small number of unrenovated rooms. Renovations took place over seven stages each winter until the hotel’s structural level had been entirely renovated and the edifice once again took its place among the most beautiful and renowned buildings in Swiss hospitality.

Franz Weber died this year in April, was 91 years old.

Giessbach Falls

The view from the Giessbach Falls. 我們吃完午餐後選擇一路慢走下山, 欣賞沿路景觀而沒有搭纜車.

7/31 (D13): 今天要從Interlaken回去Tschiertschen, 從Airbnb吃完早餐後, 先停Trümmelbach Falls. 一個超級大的瀑布, 隱藏在一座大山裡面, 從外面你完全看不見這個瀑布的壯觀啊.

我們搭隧道裡的纜車上山, 再走上到最高的地方看瀑布的最上端, 瀑布水溫大概攝氏2度 (冰冷), 最好穿防水擋風的外套, 止滑的鞋子, 因為夏天的瀑布水量很大, 靠近看很容易被噴濕.

All the Trümmelbach Falls, except the lowest, were invisible to human eyes, and unapproachable, from the last Ice Age about 15’000 years ago until they were first rendered accessible in 1877. They were hidden inside the mountain, which is why the name “Trümmelbach” does not convey a visual impression, as is the rule with waterfalls, but an acoustic one. “Trümmelbach” comes from “Trommelbach” meaning a stream that sounds like a drum.

The amount of water in the falls varies greatly. From December to March there is just a little stream trickling down under thick sheets of ice. After frosty nights in April and October the flow of water measures only a few dozen liters a second. But between April and June, when the snow melts, and between June and September, when the glacier ice melts, as well as after heavy rain and thunderstorms, as much as 20’000 liters a second may come thundering through the rocky defile. The little stream becomes a mighty river.

從Interlaken回去Tschiertschen的路程, 我們選擇景色美, 但較耗時的路段, 地圖看起來似乎比較直接, 但實際上因為是彎彎曲曲, 上上下下的山路, 所以實際上的時間比較長.

上圖的左上角還看得到還沒融化的雪和冰河, 已經融化的形成一個很大的湖, 這個景色是在Hwy 11上面, 算是這個三個半小時的路程上最高的地方.

8/1 (D14): 今天是瑞士的國慶日, 幾天前就在超市看到各種慶祝趴的裝飾品和鞭炮, 許多城鎮也開始大量設置瑞士十字國旗. 今天很多地方都有慶祝活動。

Tschiertschen這個小村落每年的傳統，就是左鄰右舍會搭滑雪纜車上去吃早餐，親朋好友中午或晚上聚餐烤肉，然後放鞭炮！

8/2 (D15): 今天很隨意, 因為天氣不太穩定, 所以就趁天氣好去散散步, 天氣不好就待在家裡上網.

8/3 (D16): 今天去Chur另外一個Merz Cafe吃早餐, 這家很大, 有Drive-Through窗口, 有很大的市內和室外座位區, 有麵包製作區. 然後去The Grisons Museum of Fine Art in Chur, 最後去Coop超市買東西.

8/4 (D17): 今天去位在瑞士意大利區Ticino’s Locarno, 這裡很有加州的感覺 (棕梠樹, 無花果樹, 檸檬樹, 橄欖樹, 氣候很熱). 從德語區開車進入意大利區, 馬上就看到交流道的出口告示牌從德語變義大利語. 坐纜車上去, 在走下來看Sacro Monte Madonna Del Sasso教堂.

然後在Brissago待一晚, 享受Lago Maggiore的湖景 (Brissago距離義大利邊界大概車程十分鐘).

8/5 (D18): 中午過後離開Brissago, 停Castelgrande城堡逛一下 (很有萬里長城的感覺), 看著城堡吃Gelato, 然後回Tschiertschen.

8/6 (D19): 一早前往蘇黎世機場, 搭機回舊金山.

 

[2019 Switzerland – 2/2]