港式飲茶 (Dim Sum)

Even after over 20 years of leading tours in
San Francisco’s Chinatown, I am often asked, “What is dim sum?” Let’s
break the phrase down and have some fun. Dim means “point” in
Cantonese, sum means “the heart.” So all you need to remember is to
point at what you want, with love in your heart.

For Westerners, dim sum is best compared to
today’s “small plates” or tapas. Some people see a dim sum experience
as a “buffet on wheels,” because the food comes to you. In a typical
Chinese teahouse, bite-sized treats of steamed dumplings and savories
are displayed on small bamboo baskets, or on plates atop steamers.
These dishes are then placed on carts that parade nonstop across the
room. When you “dim,” the cart will suddenly stop in front of your
table. If you are lucky, you get to take a peek first, then choose the
plate that appeals to you the most.

Take a tip from one experienced in the ways of
dim sum – do not choose everything from the first few carts. There will
be many more coming around. Some restaurants have over 50 items, and
that does not include more substantial dishes, such as the fabulous
Peking duck, lo mein, chow mein, chow fun, won ton soup, rice congee,
and desserts.

Dim sum is usually served from 8am until
midafternoon, but today, some restaurants make it available around the
clock. It is traditionally a time for family and friends to gather,
particularly on Saturdays and Sundays, but dim sum can be enjoyed any
day of the week. Expect to pay around $1.50 for a steamer of three or
four dumplings, and $4.50 and up for specialty items.

At most restaurants, dim sum diners can
expect tables set with a plate, chopsticks, napkin, tea cup and usually
an assortment of sauces: soy, rice and wine vinegar, hot chili oil, and
mustard. Then here come the dim sum, dishes that are best enjoyed
served with piping hot cups of tea, companionship, and plenty of
conversation.

I recently had the joy of being introduced to
several dim sum restaurants in San Mateo and the Silicon Valley. I
learned that I will need to return many times to check out the Valley’s
dim sum scene. Here are a few first impressions.

Chef Wai   111 E. Fourth Ave., San Mateo
  (650) 342-8388
I was excited to see Andy Wai, the famed ex-executive chef of San
Francisco’s Harbor Village, resurface to open his own restaurant. His
new establishment is never very crowded thus far, but I expect the
discriminating dining public will soon discover Chef Wai’s delicious
traditional (as well as modern) dim sum, made using multicultural
ingredients. There are two main dining rooms, but neither is very
large. The décor is modern and service is pleasant. My personal
favorites from Chef Wai’s dim sum carts include the pan-fried turnip
cake, salt and pepper calamari, and steamed fish dumplings. On the
non-dim-sum side, I love the “wrap-to-order” won ton soup, claypot of
black cod, and eggplant and beef stew over rice noodles.

Ginger Café  398 W. El Camino Real, Ste. 114, Sunnyvale (408) 847-2625
This beautiful, cozy new restaurant is located in a strip mall, but
upon walking inside, you are transported to another world. The lovely
décor – think high ceilings and impressive Buddhas – makes it a great
venue for a business lunch or romantic dinner. The proprietors are
working on their dim sum offerings. So far, I’ve been pleased with
Vietnamese shrimp fresh rolls, although I hope they make the rice
noodle wrappers a little easier to hold and eat. Also worth sampling
are the pan-fried leek dumplings and bok choy shrimp dumplings. The
restaurant also offers the usual suspects of dim sum – including sticky
rice in lotus leaf, har gow, siu mai and sesame balls.

Mayflower Restaurant  222 Great Mall Dr., Milpitas (408) 935-6999
Upon arrival I thought, “This place has great feng shui, and what a
lucky address, 222!” And I look forward to my next meal here. Do not be
confused by another restaurant called Mayflower – be sure to come to
this one attached to the Great Mall. Its Hong Kong décor, professional
and friendly (articulate in English) service and excellent food make it
a winner. Super standouts and personal favorites include: steamed
stuffed melon, pan-fried turnip cake with egg, braised stuffed
mushrooms, exquisite shark fin dumplings, and baked preserved egg
puffs. The enthusiastic service makes it difficult to stop eating, so I
also enjoyed a beautifully presented steamed lobster in garlic sauce
and a black cod claypot with bean curd. Thank goodness I was not crazy
about the deep-fried green tea dumplings and durian puffs (a personal
taste issue), or people might wonder how I can eat so much. (The trick
is to lay off the noodles, although I was eyeing the braised e-fu
noodles with crabmeat being served at the next table.)

HK Saigon Seafood Harbor Restaurant  1135 N. Lawrence Expwy., Sunnyvale
  (408) 734-2828
A visit to a restaurant can often be “make or break,” depending on its
customer service. Owner Wilson Fung was at the door to greet me and
commiserate with me on my horrendous navigational skills when I finally
arrived after calling for directions three times. He comforted me with
a cup of hot tea and dim sum worth getting lost for. A few favorites:
vegetarian curd skin rolls, scallop dumplings, shrimp fun gor (shrimp
rolled in rice noodles), baked barbecued pork puffs and stewed beef
brisket and tendons. In addition to a wide variety of dim sum on the
carts, there are several barbecue items – the open kitchen displays
racks of hanging ducks, chickens, and pork in the back of the dining
room, as well as tanks brimming with fish, crab and lobsters. On their
non-dim-sum menu, try the fish fillet with fresh lily bulb and slices
of lotus root. There are so many items on this menu, I’ll have to fill
up my gas tank and get back for their Wo Choy set dinners.

另外我覺得可以試試Cupertino的醉香居10911 N Wolfe Rd (408) 255-6988, 王朝10123 N Wolf Rd (408) 996-1680.